| 1. Mix a mix small amount шпатлевки on a pure wooden plate or картонке (economically spending a hardener). Follow instructions of manufacturers on packing, differently шпатлевка will harden incorrectly. |
| 2. Using аппликатор, put filling paste on the prepared surface. |
| 3. Spend аппликатором on a surface шпатлевки to reach a desirable contour and to balance a surface шпатлевки. |
| 4. When initial level and a contour will be reached, stop work with paste. If you continue, paste will stick to аппликатору. |
| 5. Continue to put thin layers of paste with 20-minute intervals while level шпатлевки will precisely not correspond to level of surrounding metal. |
| 6. When шпатлевка will harden, its surplus can be removed by means of a file. |
| 7. Further it is necessary to use an emery paper, gradually increasing its granularity, having begun with a paper with an indicator of granularity of 180 units and having finished a waterproof paper with an indicator of granularity of 600 units. Always reel up an emery paper on rubber or wooden брусок, differently the surface шпатлевки will not be completely flat. |
| 8. During surface polishing шпатлевки with an indicator of granularity of 600 units it is necessary to moisten a waterproof emery paper periodically in water. It will help to reach very smooth surface. |
| 9. Now the ring of naked metal which, in turn, should be surrounded by the good intact paint should surround repair area. Wash out area of repair by water until all dust which has remained after polishing, will not be removed. |
| 10. On all smoothed out surface apply a thin film a soil covering. It will help to find out all defects on a surface шпатлевки. |
| 11. Correct the found out defects by means of fresh шпатлевки or лассировки and once again smooth out a surface an emery paper. |
| 12. Repeat procedure of drawing of a first coat and шпатлевки until you will not be satisfied by quality of a surface шпатлевки and paint edges. |
| 13. Wash out a surface pure water and allow to it to dry up completely. |
| 14. Now the repair area is ready to painting. Colouring by dispersion is necessary for carrying out at warm, dry, windless weather when in air there will be no dust. These conditions can be reached, if you have an access to the big industrial premise. |
| 15. However if you work on open air, to choose day of painting it is necessary very carefully. If you work indoors, sprinkle water a floor. It will help you to beat a dust which differently can rise in air. |
| 16. If the repair area is on one panel of a body, close all surrounding panels. It will help you to minimise small discrepancy in colour paints. |
| 17. Decorative details of furnish, such as and so on, also it is necessary to disguise or remove chromic overlays, door handles. For masking take advantage of a sticky tape and several layers of a paper. |
| 18. Before dispersion carefully shake up a paint, and then be trained to spray it to learn to do it correctly. |
| 19. Put a thick layer of a first coat on a repaired surface. It is better to put some thin layers, than one thick. |
| 20. By means of an emery paper with granularity of 600 units smooth out a first coat surface until it does not become very smooth. |
| 21. During carrying out of this operation the processed surface should be moistened with water carefully. The emery paper also is necessary for lowering periodically in water. |
| 22. Allow to a first coat to dry up before drawing of additional layers. |
| 23. Spray a paint on the top layer, increasing its thickness by drawing of several layers. |
| 24. Start to spray a paint from the centre of repaired area, and then, using circular movements, process all repaired surface, and also approximately 5 sm of a surrounding paint. |
| 25. Remove all masking material in 10–15 minutes after drawing of last paint coat. |
| 26. Allow to a new paint to dry up, at least, two weeks, and then by means of very thin grinding structure make imperceptible transition from a new paint to initial. |
| 27. In work end put a wax layer. |
